Saturday, June 6, 2009

EATS! Eggs Benedict. And Foolproof Hollandaise.

Who doesn't love Eggs Benedict?  Sick-os, that's who.


I remember my first Eggs Benedict, done perfectly, was a place in Little Rock called, "Andre's".  I believe he was French, I was too young to remember, but he and my mother were on a first-name basis as the result of her many business luncheons in the city. Andre's was in a little renovated house in a charming neighborhood smack dab in the middle of LR, a neighborhood I would many years later return to and live just a couple houses down.  Coffee shops and vegetarian restaurants.  Art boutiques and small grocery "markets". 

I remember Andre was constantly buzzing around the tables, disappearing into the kitchen, greeting, serving, making sure everything was PERFECT.  And it really was.  I think the door was propped open that late spring morning and I remember, ooooooo, magnolias or mimosas or some distinctly southern smell wafting through the dining room.  Did I mention I'm an Arkansawyer by birth?  Anyway, I remember the taste of the mimosa (a real treat for a little girl at a ladies' brunch) and the sweat on the champagne flute.  And I remember the hollandaise.  And the creamy yolk and the crunchy, toasted, buttery muffin.  This combination is magic.  If you're iffy about eggs, you gotta just snap out of it for this one or you'll be depriving yourself of something truly mystical.

Here's what you need.

eggs 
tarragon vinegar (if we can find it in our grocery store, you           probably can, too) or plain white wine vinegar
heavy cream
1 lemon
salt
cayenne pepper
white pepper (optional, but it adds a LOT of depth)
butter
canadian bacon
English muffins
spinach (optional, but oh my gosh, so good)
garnish (fresh chives, tarragon, thyme, whatever ya' got)

Here's the SSSHHHEDULE.

1.  Prep.  Fill a saute pan (pictured below) with water to 3/4  full.  That's the pan that works best for me, but use whatevah ya' got. Bring to a simmer, reduce to the slowest simmer you can maintain.  There should be no rolling boil.  Add 2 tablespoons white vinegar and a pinch of salt.
2.  Prep a little more...  Fill the bottom of a double boiler (or a small sauce pan) with 2 inches water, bring to a simmer.  Slice 1 stick of butter (4 oz) into 8 pieces.  Place in freezer to chill. Juice the lemon and set aside.  Place your eggs for poaching out, allowing them to come to room temperature.

3.  Split and butter the muffins and toast in 450 oven for about 5 minutes, flip, then about 3 or so more.  Set aside.  Meanwhile, pan fry the Canadian bacon slices, sprinkle with pepper if desired, and drain on towels.  

4.  La spinach. Or "L'épinard".  Whatever.  My apologies to my eighth grade French teacher, Madame Stevens.  In a small skillet, melt 1 Tablespoon butter over medium heat, add a huge handful of spinach (this will reduce CONSIDERABLY), and a pinch of salt.  Cover and remove from heat.

5.  HOLLANDAISE TIME!  In the top of the double boiler (or a heat-proof glass bowl), BUT OFF THE HEAT, whisk 2 egg YOLKS, 2 Tablespoons heavy cream, and 2 teaspoons of the tarragon vinegar.  Add a pinch of salt, cayenne, and white pepper to taste.  Set on top of the double boiler's simmering water (you're cooking with its steam - a much gentler heat), whisk maniacally until you start to see it thickening.  This isn't as tricky as you may have heard. Do not be afraid!  Just don't let any corners go un-whisked, and if you start to see ANY solids, remove from heat and whisk.  Now, start adding your butter, 1 pat at a time.  You can slow the whisking down now, just keeping the butter moving and occasionally fluff the whole thing together.  This chilled butter trick is the secret to an almost fool-proof hollandaise.  If you can't make this one, well, I'm just sorry you'll have to relegate it to Sunday brunches out.  And you'll still be missing out!
Okay, when you've got about 4 pats left, turn the heat off and slide the pan off the heat.  Drop in a couple pats, and just let them hang out.  
I sincerely hope you can see the bubbles in this photo below.  You have no idea how airy this is.  My husband says that you try to take a bite of this, and it just disappears in your mouth it is SO light.


6.  Poaching the eggs.  Break 1 egg into a small ramekin or little bowl.  QUICKLY - hesitation will cause problems, I promise, pour the egg in the simmering saute water.  The only technique I've found that works is, don't hesitate, hold the bowl RIGHT over the surface of the water (no big plops), and don't move the bowl (aim at one spot in the water and when the egg starts to drop, drop the remaining egg RIGHT OVER THE TOP OF IT).   
Now, don't touch it, don't shake the pan or anything.  If you have a couple flops, hey, it happens until you get used to poaching.

7.  Mind your hollandaise!  Add remaining butter, return double boiler to burner (if burner is still warm, if not, turn to warm). Whisk well, then add about 6 drops of lemon juice.

8.  Good to go!  How's the eggs?  Lift the first one out with a slotted spoon and jiggle.  These do continue to cook slightly after they are off heat, but not much.  I find the best way to avoid the dangers of overhandling and the resulting broken yolk is to remove the egg with a slotted spoon, jiggle gently to remove excess water then place the spoon (egg and all) on top of a clean dish towel for a second to absorb excess moisture.  This works well for us. Okay. Cook to your liking, then assemble your Eggs Benedict!  They should be layered as such:  muffin, spinach (optional of course), Canadian bacon, egg, hollandaise drizzle (go for it!), cayenne, and garnish as you like (we love chives).  

Serve these with chilled glasses of OJ, or be really good to yourself and make it a mimosa! The citrus really compliments the creamy eggs.  
ENJOY!


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